Lenin’s statue stands in the center of town in Murgab, one of the highest cities in the Pamirs. A few mosques dot the town. There are no trees, and the security details warns us not to go out at night. “It seems normal,” they say, “but really there are a lot of bad people around.” There are no street lights, and can hardly find out way back to the hotel. On Sunday, militants apparently attacked a convoy of government soldiers, killing as many as 23. Now people say there is a curfew imposed on the Rasht valley area. Now you can’t go out at night, even if you want to.

• The Pamirs We just came back from Iskander-Kol, only about four hours from Dushanbe. We drove the Niva, and made it through the "tunnel of death" alive! To get to the Pamirs however, you have to either drive 13-16 hours, or go to the airport and try to get on a flight.......
• Murgab Cafe There's a little cafe on the edge of a city called Murgab. The cafe is round. The windows are square. Before the president came, 'Cafe' was written on the side, but now it has been painted over. I try to take a picture of a man speaking with his friend.......

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