We just came back from Iskander-Kol, only about four hours from Dushanbe. We drove the Niva, and made it through the “tunnel of death” alive! To get to the Pamirs however, you have to either drive 13-16 hours, or go to the airport and try to get on a flight. You can’t book tickets ahead of time, you just show up. When enough people put their names on the list, the plane flies. There are only about 20 seats, so you have to get there early, or know someone. Pei met a German man who had waited 3 days to get on the flight.
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