There’s a stadium behind the supermarket Poitaht. Everything in Dushanbe is named Poitaht, lest you forget that you’re in the capital (poitaht means capital in Tajik). But when you’re here, you can’t forget that this is the seat of power – the BMW signals at you, reminds us that the parliament is on the left, the Somoni statue looms ahead, turn right to the presidential palace beyond the ten foot fence. And don’t forget the new construction, built with the president’s generosity, ubiquity, omnipotence. Since the end of the civil war, the people here have experienced peace and growth. But I saw this wall today, the one that surrounds the sports stadium, it is crumbling before my eyes.

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