But the Pamirs are 97% landscapes. The people are jammed into the cracks. They are stick people, at the whim of the ice and snow. I’m in the AK helicopter, Phoenix and Pei are next to me. This is the end of my trip. But what about the people who can’t just fly out of the Pamirs? To them, the mountains are black holes, the worlds on the other side are the stuff of science fiction. “I’m taking the helicopter back to Dushanbe tomorrow,” I say. I wonder what goes through their mind when I say that. Maybe they have never been to Dushanbe. Maybe they have never seen a helicopter.
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Window One of my colleagues is trying to get a flight into Dushanbe. He wants to come for just two days. Dushanbe doesn't really work that way unfortunately. Tuesday, Wednesday and Sunday you can come in from Istanbul, one flight a day. Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday you can fly in from...... -
Stormy Night Phoenix looks on from the doorway just before a thunder storm. The weather in Dushanbe is violent and unpredictable. Later afternoon storms have been common, and the wind often tears out garden to shreds. The wind doesn't compromise. Neither do the people. I've seen drivers honk at one another,......